A Dichotomy of Contradicting Realities

The thing about big cities like Bangkok (population 12 million) is that concessions are hardly made for tourists. Much like in Chicago, or New York City, you’re expected to immediately fall into the city’s rhythm. Unlike in Saigon and Siem Reap, no priority was given to us as new arrivals and nothing but the local currency was accepted (the baht).

Grand Palace entrance

Bangkok is a phenomenon I was hardly prepared for. On one hand, I was impressed by the variety and incredible opulence of the temples…Some buildings are covered in gold, others are decorated with thousands of finely detailed tiles and jeweled mirrors. On the gorgeous days I was there, every building seemed to sparkle and glitter under the tropical sun. On the other hand, I was surprised to see the abject poverty of ramshackle shacks right along side shrines and houses of the rich. The realities of rich and poor, of cleanliness and pollution, of friendliness and sketchiness, and other such dichotomies were everywhere.

House on the Chao Phraya River in Bangkok

Luckily, we were sure to study up on the customs to ensure we didn’t unintentionally offend anyone; Thailand is very different from the U.S.! When a local graces you with a wai (a Thai greeting…slight bow, with the palms pressed together in a prayer-like fashion) it is appropriate to return it. I really loved this custom, and the clear sign it gave of mutual respect.

The wai greeting is said to resemble a closed Lotus flower. Photo by Anthony Ewing.

On the street, you really can experience almost anything – ostentatious shopping malls, eclectic markets, lady boy shows, famous (and at times somewhat scary) night life, tuk-tuk rides, hot-pink taxis, Muay Thai matches, ancient Thai massage, street food a-plenty, and so on.

Prohibited outfits at the Grand Palace - although we took special care to dress appropriately, two girls in our group still had to purchase additional cover-ups.

The only real complaint I had during my couple weeks in Southeast Asia was my experience with the Thai cab drivers – none of whom seemed willing to turn on a meter and tried to scam 3-5 times the cost of a typical ride to or from our hotel.

Thai cabs

I felt as though, in general, Thai people are polite to the point of reverence, however between drivers trying to make extra money, and endlessly being offered “Ping Pong shows” at the Patpong night market (which, in all fairness, is right in the heart of the Red-light district), for the first time on this trip I felt unsafe. I was asked by my professor what exactly I was afraid of…nothing really, it’s just that intuition you suddenly get that isn’t easily explained. I had a heightened sense of awareness that I trusted was necessary.

Patpong night market in the middle of the red-light district

I both loved the city and hated it at the same time. The sheer size of Bangkok can be very overwhelming, however with all there is to do and see, it really is a spectacular place to visit. Overall, Bangkok is very affordable, and with 2 hour Thai massages only costing 400 baht (roughly $14 USD), it is easy to become spoiled.

A Ride down the Chao Phraya River

After touring the Grand Palace, my classmates and I hopped onto a long-boat, crossed the river and had lunch at the amazing water front Supatra River House Restaurant. This was one of those Thai lunches you dream of…the cashew chicken…drool…

View of the Chao Phraya River from Supatra River House Restaurant

As we ate, we were suddenly graced with the presence of an American expat, Jeff, who acted as our “travel agent” of sorts for this trip. He once worked in the travel industry in the states and later started a business in Thailand when he realized that there was a lack of “custom travel agents” in this region of the world. Having the good sense to note that Americans don’t typically like to be herded onto buses and rushed around like many of the local travel and touring companies would have you do, he decided to specialize in creating that one of kind southeast Asia experience, complete with meals at the best restaurants and tours given by award-winning guides. All I know is that he is EXCELLENT at his job and hope I have the good fortune to use his services again.

After lunch, we boarded a river express boat to explore some of the klongs (canals) of the Chao Phraya River. Damage left from the October flooding can still be seen on  many of the wooden river-front houses.

Exploring the canals we saw schools, hospitals, temples, and homes on stilts lining the banks. I even spotted a vine that looked like Jesus!

Hallelujah!

There is an endless variety of things to see along this river – even huge, bread-eating catfish.

Wat Pho? Pho Mo Buddha Smiles!

The first temple our group visited while in Bangkok was Wat Pho (the Temple of the Reclining Buddha… the official name is a mouthful that I can’t even attempt to pronounce – Wat Phra Chetuphon Vimolmangklararm Rajwaramahaviharn).

This Buddhist temple is really quite impressive and is even considered the birthplace of the traditional Thai massage. Everywhere you turn, the buildings sparkle with colorful brilliance under the sun.

While there are over 1,000 images of Buddha here, the largest and most grandiose is a majestic reclining Buddha covered in gold leaf.

Pictures seen here don’t really give a sense of the sheer size and awe of this famous statue – this guy is HUGE at about 160 feet long and 50 feet high. The architecture and decoration within the building are beautiful. I even took a picture of the ceiling I thought it was so pretty :)

Feets!

Symbols include tigers, elephants, flowers and much more

Pretty ceiling

The Buddha’s feet alone are about 10 feet long and exquisitely decorated in mother-of-pearl illustrations of auspicious ‘laksanas’ (characteristics) of the Buddha.

After taking our shoes off at the entrance (and being aware of non-Thai pickpockets), we passed the devout who dropped offerings of Baht (Thai currency, it’s about 30 baht to the USD) into pots lined along the inside perimeter of the building.

My favorite was Buddha’s smile. Meant to depict Buddha at his moment of enlightenment, I just loved the peaceful and serene look on his face.