Get Real or Forfeit Your Place in the Sun

Expanding or moving business operations into Southeast Asia requires a deep understanding of the different emerging economies in the region. Navigating the political system, understanding consumer purchasing patterns, recognizing the dark horse that others overlook for investment, and finding the right local business partners are all important factors, as Chris Bruton, Director for Thailand and Indochina at Dataconsult, shared with us during the last official business meeting of the study abroad program.

Chris from Dataconsult

Of the 10 countries in the Association of Southeast Asian nations, the ASEAN 5 (Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, Myanmar, Vietnam) currently account for 1/4 of its GDP and roughly 39% of ASEAN’s population. Having seen first hand the rapid growth taking place in Ho Chi Minh City and Siem Reap, and the consumerism rapidly spreading throughout their respective countries, this put in perspective for me the great opportunity present in these developing economies.

Thailand leads, growth and infrastructure-wise, its sister countries in the ASEAN 5. It is considered a manufacturing center, especially for consumer goods, and an air transportation hub (Suvarnabhumi Airport handled 48 million passengers last year, just surpassing Singapore Changi Airport).  The flood, which tragically hit the country in October, actually created a promising infrastructure investment opportunity as $50B in damages presents a chance to build new state-of-the-art plants and facilities. In fact, Habitat for Humanity has been involved in the aid of post-flood rebuilding.

Doing business in Thailand is relatively easy for Americans. The Treaty of Amity and Economic Relations from 1966 allows U.S. and Thai companies’ equal economic access to one another’s markets. Thailand ranked 17th in the World Bank for ease of doing business but lacks adequate education programs to compete on a global scale (ranked 62 in the World Economic Forum, still significantly higher than the ASEAN 4). Thailand also ranks relatively low in political stability because, here, the caste system is still very much in practice. This means that everyone has a distinct place in society – Brahmin social elite, merchant class, peasant & worker class – and it is difficult, if not nearly impossible, to escape their rank. Improved education is the key both to overcoming these challenges and to long-term democracy.  As the boom in internet access spreads through Thailand and the ASEAN 4, knowledge spreads and dissatisfaction grows with current systems, as we’ve recently seen in other regions of the world.

After travelling to 3 of the 5 ASEAN nations, it does appears that Thailand is more “with it” than its neighbors. After learning from Chris for an hour, I would now attribute that to a recent history devoid of war, being more capital-intensive (rather than labor intensive), and possessing the factors which resulted in a higher WEF competitiveness ranking.

The other 4 nations in the ASEAN 5 rank low in ease of doing business (Vietnam ranks 98, Cambodia ranks 138, Laos ranks 165), competitiveness (Vietnam ranks 65, Cambodia ranks 97), and, as we had learned only days before, the education system in Vietnam and Cambodia are quite poor (Vietnam ranks 103, Cambodia ranks 120). Communist authoritarianism in Laos and Vietnam and endemic corruption in the region create substantial challenges for any business to run successfully. As we saw with businesses like Intel, helping the governments with policy formulation and follow through is necessary – these nations have poor records of carrying out newly created policies. My classmates and I learned at Fulbright that, in the case of Vietnam, reform is needed within the banking system as bank insolvency is one of the largest causes of the recent inflation of the dong.

Loyola has an international partnership with Harvard - the mission: to bring U.S. quality university programs to Vietnam.

Mr. Bruton mentioned that Myanmar is a dark horse in the region, showing a lot of potential. Largely ignored because of its relatively ”closed off” history to the rest of the world, it appears to be in a turning point politically. The country has a vast energy, mineral, and agricultural resource base, but like its neighbors, has huge challenges in infrastructure, bureaucracy, financing and labor.

Dr. Shultz thanking Mr. Bruton

During this incredible study abroad program, Dr. Shultz provided us a total immersion in the local customs, a unique exposure  to and perspective of international culture, and lessons of endlessly fantastic opportunity in a truly beautiful part of the world. I am forever grateful to him for the countless lessons he has bestowed upon me.

Crazy Buntha’s Bar – The Path Less Traveled

Pub street, the main night-life area of Siem Reap, was another one of those unexpected places encountered during my stay in Southeast Asia (we never stopped learning new things on this trip, so it obviously was an immensely successful study abroad). When reading about Cambodia, I learned of war, and genocide, and people suffering from lost limbs as a result of still-active mines. What I never read about was just how developed (and safe) Siem Reap has become in the past decade and how fantastic the night-life scene is in this little town of 250,000 (about the size of Lincoln Nebraska).

Pub Street Entrance

Admittedly, my fellow classmate, Damien, and I were looking for a break from Asian food and ended up at a pizza place in the strip of restaurants with names all strikingly similar to each other; happy pizza, happy herb pizza, ecstatic pizza, happy Angkor pizza. No surprise, Chicago pizza wins :) While we ate, fireworks went off in a courtyard across the way. We had no idea why since it was now a full week after New Years and a couple of weeks before Tet. Little did I know I’d have my own adventure later in the night, during which I would discover the meaning of the celebration.

Damien and I started at Angkor What?, the first bar to open on Pub Street back in 1998, which offers $0.50 drafts of Angkor and Anchor beer (and they taste about the same). Almost everyone spoke English and everywhere we went listed items in U.S. dollars. Being on the other side of the globe, I found it strange I never had to exchange to the local currency, the Riel (our professor suggested just bringing a lot of singles, which was a great suggestion because that is all I had to use).

Temple Club

While observing the movement on the street from the outside patio, we noticed a whole group of our fellow classmates walking by. Soon thereafter we left Angkor What? and ended up dancing our hearts out at Temple Club.

Fun group of Loyola students

A couple of hours later, around midnight or so, I went to the street outside to get my bearings and determine which direction to walk to get back to the hotel. The cold I had been fighting since arriving in SEA seemed to be getting worse, so I decided it was time to call it a night. While looking at my map, I saw Cambodian kids dancing next to me. Despite having to sell items on the street in the middle of the night, they still had cute little smiles on their faces and seemed very happy. These two in the video look about the age of my niece and nephew…I can’t imagine them being out at 12am having to make money to eat.

At the very end of that video, around the 1:15 minute mark, you’ll see a guy in a white shirt. That’s Mr. Chin, a soon to be new friend who allowed me to have an adventure I will never forget. He approached me asking if he could help me figure out how to get where I needed to go. Yes, but both being endlessly curious, we started a conversation that ended up lasting a couple of hours.

This tuk-tuk driver was warm and friendly and having the good sense to trust him I asked where he and other locals like to hang out. I asked if he could take a break from driving people around and have a couple of beers with me off Pub street and somewhere else that my classmates wouldn’t likely find. He took me a bar owned by his friend, Crazy Buntha.

Mr. Chin my new Khmer friend

Buntha was only slightly crazy, more funny and quirky if you ask me. I noticed a Khmer waitress behind the bar, and a group of Aussies who live in Siem Reap (if I remember correctly they do UN peace-keeping work). For the next hour or so he asked me all about life in the states, how my husband and I met, what he and I do for a living, what we do for fun, where we’ve traveled,  and so on. Only having the chance to travel to the U.S. in his wildest dreams, he was as interested in learning from me as I was him. He told me about life in Cambodia, taught me how to say thank you in Khmer (Ahh Koon), and shared his thoughts about the police in his city. “Now it is very safe here. About 80% people here good, 20% or so bad.” I assured him that was probably the case in the U.S., and the rest of the world, as well.

Pointing at the Khmer day calendar, Chin said, “Buntha, change the day, the day over,” and ripped January 7th off the wall since it was now about 1:30am on the 8th. Chin handed it to me and said “Today was special day, we celebrate. Today was celebrate Vietnamese overthrow of Pol Pot and Khmer Rouge. In 1979 on this day, they come and save our country, so we happy.” This explained the fireworks I saw earlier! How exciting to be able to celebrate that day with a local! Shortly thereafter I was too tired and talking became painful (suffering early stages of laryngitis) so I asked him to take me back to the hotel.

This one day, ending with drinks and conversation with Chin, was my personal favorite of the trip. He even gave me his information so that I could call and have him and his tuk-tuk driving friends pick my classmates and I up the next night and do something similar, but sadly, this was the only night I was able to go out in Cambodia because the cold I was fighting, well, it ended up winning.

I found this interesting clip about the event from ABC in 1979. Interesting what other governments, including the U.S. said about it at the time. Thank God the Vietnamese overthrew Pol Pot, one of the worst mass-murders in history!

The Fall of Pol Pot and Phnom Penh

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Look Up and See a Sign

How cool are these? First, in Chicago there are plenty of deer crossing signs. What you’d have to go to Cambodia to see…an Elephant crossing sign.

Our first night in Siem Reap, a group of us walked down to Pub Street to check out the nightlife and noticed that the cross walk signal suggested how fast you should be moving to get to the other side of the street. We definitely didn’t see anything as safe as this when we were in Ho Chi Minh City…